There seems to be a lot of confusion about what mica is. A lot of people will tell you that all mica used in cosmetics is lab-made. The reasons given will be it's lab made for purity, or it's cheaper to make it in a lab. Both are incorrect.
And while we're clearing things up, mica can't be labeled "organic" either, whether it's natural or lab-created. Organic certification applies to agricultural products, and mica is a mineral. "Not organic" doesn't mean "not natural." They're just answering two different questions.
Micas used in cosmetics can be naturally mined or they can be lab-made synthetics. Most of the micas we use in cosmetics and soaps are naturally mined micas, but synthetics are available. Naturally mined micas are less expensive, while synthetic mica – also called fluorphlogopite – is more expensive.
So where does natural mica actually come from? It starts as a mineral called muscovite, formed deep in the earth under intense heat and pressure over millions of years. Once it's mined, the raw mica is cleaned, ground down, and milled into the fine powder you see in mica colors. Lab-created mica skips the mining step entirely. It's grown under controlled conditions using the same basic mineral building blocks, then processed into a powder with a much more consistent, engineered structure.
Here is a picture of natural vs. synthetic mica:
Synthetic mica is superior to natural mica in several ways. They are more pure, much more bright, and have superior clarity of color. We love synthetic mica!
Part of the reason lab-created mica looks so clean and bright comes down to its shape. Natural mica particles are irregular and a little jagged around the edges, since they're chipped off of rock. Lab-created mica particles are smooth and uniform, almost like tiny mirrors, which is part of why synthetic mica can be milled into larger particles without turning gritty or dull. Neither one is better across the board. It comes down to what look and feel you're going for in your project.
Another question often asked is if naturally mined mica colors are natural. They are natural in their raw uncolored state. Natural mica is usually an off-white mineral and can have brownish tones. To achieve a bright color pigment is applied to the mica substrate using heat. Micas can be colored using various dyes and pigments to achieve the desired color. These colors are lab-made and are not natural. They are often made to be nature-identical. Want to see how different mica colors combine before you buy? Try our Color Blender tool to preview blends at different ratios.
The reason the colors used to pigment the mica are lab-made is primarily to achieve a certain level of purity. This is a good thing! The FDA has certain standards that color additives must meet:
Specifications. [Cosmetic] Mica shall conform to the following specifications and shall be free from impurities other than those named to the extent that such other impurities may be avoided by good manufacturing practice:
Fineness, 100 percent shall pass through a 100-mesh sieve.
Loss on ignition at 600-650 deg. C, not more than 2 percent.
Lead (as Pb), not more than 20 parts per million.
Arsenic (as As), not more than 3 parts per million.
Mercury (as Hg), not more than 1 part per million. 21CFR73.1496
Basically, lab-created pigments are used to color cosmetic micas because they meet purity standards set forth by the FDA. If you want to learn how to actually read and apply the FDA's color tables to your own products, check out our guide, Reading the FDA Color Tables.
The FDA defines natural mica as:
The color additive mica is a white powder obtained from the naturally occurring mineral, muscovite mica, consisting predominantly of a potassium aluminum silicate, K2Al4(Al2Si6O20)(OH)4 or, alternatively, H2KAl3(SiO4)3. Mica may be identified and semiquantitatively determined by its characteristic X-ray diffraction pattern and by its optical properties. 21CFR73.1496
However, there is no definition or regulation for synthetic mica at this time! This does not mean that we can have a free-for-all with it. Synthetic mica must still contain FDA approved color additives to be considered cosmetic grade. There are some benefits to this, however. Because synthetic mica is not regulated by itself as a color additive, we can have more variance in micron size and mica use in cosmetics.
Naturally mined mica is not approved for use in cosmetics at a micron size higher than 150. Synthetic micas may be used in cosmetics at any micron size, since there are no regulations as of yet set forth by the FDA. YAY! Curious exactly where that 150-micron number comes from? We break down the math behind the FDA's rule in Size Matters! Micron Size and Mica.
How to Tell Natural and Lab-Created Mica Apart on a Label
If you're reading an ingredient list and trying to figure out what kind of mica you're working with, here's what to look for. Natural mica usually shows up as "Mica," "Potassium Aluminum Silicate," or "CI 77019." Synthetic mica is typically listed as "Synthetic Mica" or "Synthetic Fluorphlogopite," regardless of whether the brand calls it "synthetic" or "lab-created" everywhere else. If a label doesn't specify, it's worth asking the seller directly, since both types are legitimate but they behave a little differently in your projects.
Is Mica Ethically Sourced?
This is a fair question, and an important one. A portion of the world's natural mica supply comes from regions where mining has historically involved child labor and unsafe conditions, particularly in parts of India and Madagascar. It's a real problem in the industry, and one we take seriously.
That's why we're selective about where our natural mica comes from, working only with suppliers who can verify their mining and labor practices. It's a big part of why you'll see "Ethical Mica" listed as one of our core standards. You can read our full Mica Compliance Declaration for more on how we vet our suppliers and hold them accountable. We hold that same standard for FDA compliance across all of our colorants, not just mica, which you can read about in our FDA Compliance Declaration. If sourcing matters to you, and it should, don't be afraid to ask any supplier how their mica is sourced. A supplier who can't answer that clearly is a red flag.
One more thing worth knowing: mica, whether natural or lab-created, doesn't biodegrade the way organic materials do, since it's a mineral rather than something microorganisms can break down. Like sand or other minerals, it will eventually weather down into finer particles over a very long time, but that's a different process than biodegradation, and it's true of both types, not just one.
Hopefully this helps clear up some confusion about what kind of mica we use in soap and cosmetics, as well as the different types available.
Ready to put your mica to work? Check out How To Use Our Micas for exact usage ratios in soap, bath bombs, resin, candles, and more. Have more general questions, like whether mica is safe, edible, or where to buy it? Our Mica Powder FAQ covers all of that and more.
Ready to see mica color in action? Shop our full Mica Powder collection for both naturally mined and synthetic shades, all sourced and tested to the standards covered above.
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